DENALI PARK, ALASKA

DENALI PARK, ALASKA

We left Fairbanks with the weather still not the best.  Everywhere we go the “narrators” of our tour will tell us that they only get 11-15 “ of precipitation a year.  Okay, I’m thinking they are evidently getting it all at one time --- while we are here.  It seems it has rained almost every day since we left Chicken, Alaska.  A little rain doesn’t usually bother me much but after a few days of it --- I’m ready for some sunshine.  The temperatures have been ranging from the mid 40’s to high 60’s but with the cold winds and the rain it has felt a lot colder --- think we have to factor that wind chill/no sun into the equation.  LOL

But again, we cannot complain!!  

We left Chicken, Alaska on July 10^th (Saturday) and the next day (Sunday) the rains totally washed out the roads to and from Chicken (only 2 roads, 1 each way).  Several people were stranded there for days and we heard of one vehicle that was found washed off the road and to date no one from that vehicle has been found or heard from.  Scary --- I repeat, I will not travel that “Top of the Highway” road again ---- a long leisurely trip around Chicken sounds wonderful to me.  

So, all that to say, it rained all the way to Denali Park --- beautiful country, the scenery continues to boggle my brain, so much to take in.  Even in the rain the magnificence overwhelms me.  We made a few quick stops to get better pictures but basically covered the 102 miles pretty uneventful except the one moose we saw in a pond alongside the road. We did not see it soon enough to stop and get a picture.

We mentioned the frequent fires and the one that the tour bus mentioned while in Fairbanks.  Driving to Denali we caught sight of a fire, the smoke reaching out for miles.  They say that some of these fires smolder under the ground for a long time, even through the winter, and then re-spark months later.  These next two pictures are of that smoldering fire.

We arrived at the Denali RV Park, set up the rig and got everything organized.  The rafting trip on the Nenana River was planned for 6PM.  By now you probably have read Bill’s post on the rafting, but figured I’d share some thoughts on it also.  Now I had been totally excited about this trip but a little nervous.  First of all, I had never rafted before.  Secondly, we did not know how to dress it was so cold.  In Bill’s previous experience he had worn shorts or pants with a T-shirt.  The Denali Outdoor Adventure Center provides “dry suits” but we weren’t sure what would fit under there.  A swimsuit? (OH NO – Too cold!)  We were told to where regular clothes so we wore jeans, socks, T-shirts and hooded sweatshirts.  I was very close to backing out of this experience.  Then I remembered how I almost let the rain/cold stop me from the “Hotsprings” in Liard…..so I stiffened my resolve and set out.   There were 11 of us that went in spite of the weather.  They zipped us into the suits & boots (seriously, you could not get it on without help) and I realized I had no hood to mine.  I was thinking how glad I was that I wore the hooded sweatshirt when the guide told me it had to go inside the suit or it would not be airtight and keep out the water.

OUR GROUP WITH THE GUIDES

Just a day or two earlier Bill had asked me of all the things we had seen and done what was my favorite.  I told him then that everything had been fun and different, I had enjoyed them all but could not pick out a favorite.  NOW, I can --- RAFTING IS AWESOME!!  I absolutely loved it.  I was in awe of the tremendous beauty surrounding us while we sat in the middle of the Nenana River.  It was wonderful.  Then you add in the excitement of the rapids, WOW!  Yes, I was freezing, my hair was wet (thought there must have been icicles by the end of the trip), my hands were numb, my feet were cold --- but I could have done that all night.  It was great.  Now I am ready to try some that are 4-5 levels.  LOL.  Next time I raft in Alaska, I will wear two pair of socks, take a stocking hat & have hand warmers in my life vest!!  But, I am looking forward to trying it in the sunshine!  That could be good!

BILL AND I WERE IN THE BACK, DIDN'T GET QUITE AS WET THERE BUT THE GUIDE, JP MADE SURE WE DIDN'T MISS OUT.

THIS WAS A GOOD ONE!!

We enjoyed our hot chocolate upon the return and looked forward to the electric heater, warm throws and the electric mattress pad!!  It only took a couple hours to thaw out with all that. 

We arrived back at the RV around 10PM and were to meet the bus the next morning at 6:00 AM (seriously I had to get up at 4:30 AM) for a full day in Denali National Park.  Now this sounded like fun, “Full day Tundra tour & endless spotting grizzlies, elusive moose and perhaps a peek at Mt. McKinley (the highest mountain peak in North America at 20,000 feet).  Sounds good, doesn’t it?  Well it was basically 7 hours on a bus with a tour guide driving on crazy narrow roads on the edge of the cliff.  We stopped 4 times for bathroom breaks (at outhouses) with only one stop being picturesque.  

THIS WAS THE ROAD THE TOUR BUS TOOK US ON -- IF YOU CLICK ON THIS PICTURE YOU MAY BE ABLE TO SEE THE BUS COMING AROUND THE BEND...WE TRAVELED THAT BOTH WAYS WITH BUSES COMING ALONG SIDE OF US. YIKES!

THIS ROAD SEEMS A LITTLE NARROW FOR TWO FULL SIZE TOUR BUSES TO PASS DOESN'T IT?  IT WAS A LITTLE "NERVOUSING"!

YES THAT LITTLE WHITE LINE ON THE SIDE OF THE MOUNTAIN IS OUR ROAD

Now we did spot 6 grizzly bears (3 adult & 3 cubs – 3 different sightings), a couple herds of caribou, a group of Dall Sheep, a few Snowshoe Rabbits, different type squirrels and a couple different birds.  From the bus they looked like little brown or white specks on the mountainside – we could see them move but could not distinguish anything really.  The bus had a video and monitors so as we spotted something she would zero in and we could see it on the monitor.  I couldn’t help thinking we might as well have stayed in the RV and watched an Alaskan wildlife video.  The scenery was beautiful, we were right in the middle of the mountains, right on the edge of some of them!! But trying to see it through the rain/mud splattered bus windows was difficult.  It’s not like we were actually “in” the wild.  Not sorry we went, but don’t plan on going that route again.  Problem is, Denali does not allow personal vehicles past a certain point.  They only allow tour buses and shuttle buses.  They feel this preserves the park as it limits “human” intrusion.  I hope all National Parks do not decide to go this route. 

  

IF YOU BLOW THIS UP YOU MAY BE ABLE TO SEE THE THREE (MOTHER & 2 CUBS) GRIZZLIES IN MIDDLE, TOWARDS BOTTOM.  WE DID SEE THEM REAL WELL ON THE VIDEO SCREEN ON THE BUS.  LOL

We were ready to leave Denali and head on to Anchorage, Alaska 263 miles.  It was going to be a long drive the next day.  Looking forward to the next stop on the tour.

NORTH POLE, ALASKA / FAIRBANKS, ALASKA

We got up on a rainy morning in Delta Junction, Alaska.  It was dreary and rather cool but we are not complaining – Alaska is Great no matter what the weather (well in the summer anyway, not sure I want to be here in the winter months)!   The Delta Junction Visitor Center has the monument that marks the Alaskan Highway’s end.  This Highway has monumental landmarks for each of the beginnings/endings.  As we were too wiped out the night before to trek down there we decided to make that a stop on our way out of town headed for North Pole/Fairbanks.  We pulled in right before 4 tour buses, so we jumped out of the car and ran over to the sign and asked this woman (who did not speak English) to take our picture.  She graciously did as we communicated with gestures & smiles.

HAVE WE TOLD YOU HOW BIG THE MOSQUITOS ARE UP HERE??  THESE WERE ON DISPLAY AT THE VISITORS' CENTER IN DELTA JUNCTION.  WE DO NOT KNOW THE MAN THEY ARE ATTACKING.

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Back to the RV Park to hook up the tow car and head out of town.  We knew we only had 87 miles to drive but we also knew we had to be in the park and set up before 5:15PM for a group outing.  These time frames are always a challenge.  LOL

We weren’t on the road very long when Bill spotted a female moose in a creek close to my side of the road – he was able to pull over safely & quietly and Ms. Moose was very cooperative as I took several pictures.  It is so amazing to just see them in the wild this way – I know to the locals it’s like us seeing deer all the time (although I still enjoy that!) but it is so cool.  In the winter, especially with the trees behind the condo bare, the deer are easy to see.  Blair gets so excited and every time she comes to our place she wants to see “deer”.  She doesn’t understand why we can’t just produce them!!

We stopped and took pictures on the way of the Clearwater River, the Tanana River and Birch Lake.  We also stopped to fix lunch in the motor home and have our “Church service” (It was Sunday and we were not able to locate a Church to attend where we were). 

As I was looking ahead in the “Milepost” I saw an ad for “The Knotty Shop”, Alaskan Gifts, Wildlife Display & Ice Cream!!  Now which of these things do you think caught my eye??  All you had to do was bring in the ad from the “Milepost” and you received a free ice cream cone!  Oh yeah, that’s what I’m talking about --- we stopped, took some pictures, bought a few souvenirs & I had ice cream (Death by Chocolate).  A very good stop!!

ANIMALS OF ALASKA ON DISPLY IN FRONT OF THE "KNOTTY SHOP" 

THEY ALSO HAD A DISPLAY OF ANIMALS INSIDE THE "KNOTTY SHOP".  THIS IS A CROSS FOX LIKE THE ONE WE SAW ON THE WAY DOWN FROM MIDNIGHT DOME IN DAWSON CITY, YUKON.

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We arrived in camp before 3PM – time enough to totally set up, get organized, check out the campground, check e-mail, make phone calls, get cleaned up and make the bus by 5:15PM.  We were headed to the “Alaska Salmon Bake” at Pioneer Park.  It’s a very neat place.  The restaurant entrance is into a “mineshaft” with interesting artifacts and pictures lining the way to the outside.  It is a buffet serving Salmon, Cod, Halibut & Prime Rib (Hot Dogs also) along with the trimmings and dessert.  I did try each one of the main dishes – are you all proud of me??  I did, however, prefer the hot dog.  Bill enjoyed all the fish!!  After dinner we had time to hang out with everyone and check out the gift shop --- yes, I know, they are everywhere!  At 8PM we met for a show, the “Golden Heart Revue”.  It was slapstick humor, song and dance about the Gold Rush and the discovery of Fairbanks.  Everyone enjoyed the show and the bus brought us back to the campground by 10PM.  A little “Band of Brothers” and off to bed, we had to meet the bus at 7:15AM the next morning.

THEY PICKED US UP AT THE RV CAMPGROUND AND TOOK US TO THE ALASKA SALMON BAKE.  THEY HAD ABOUT 8-10 OF THESE BUSES -- I'D SAY THEY DO A PRETTY GOOD BUSINESS.

WE ENTERED THE RESTAURANT THROUGH THIS "MINE" SHAFT.  PRETTY COOL!

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Monday at 7:15 sharp the bus left for the “Riverboat Discovery”, an authentic sternwheeler.  A quick tour of the city on the way and time to visit (you guessed it) the gift shop before boarding.  It was a beautiful day and a thoroughly enjoyable excursion.  The riverboat cruises the Chena & Tanana Rivers with Alaskan captains and interactive visits with locals on the shore along the way.  

We had a chance to see the sled dogs trained for the Iditarod by none other than the husband of Susan Butcher who won the Iditarod 4 different years.  She passed away with cancer 4 yrs ago but her dream and enthusiasm lives on here in Fairbanks.  After the cruise there was a chance to meet Lance Mackey, the winner of the Iditarod & the Yukon Quest for 4 years running and his lead dog.  

There was also a stop along the way at a Chena Indian Village --- there were informative talks, demonstrations and displays of the life of the Chena people today and in days past. 

THERE WERE ANIMAL SKINS OF ALL THOSE THAT THE CHENA PEOPLE TRAPPED.  BILL IS STANDING BY THIS WOLF SKIN SO YOU CAN SEE HOW BIG IT IS.

THE GRIZZLY BEAR SKIN WAS RATHER LARGE ALSO.  LOL

Oh yes, and there were Reindeer!  It is well worth seeing if you come up this way.

THEY HAD A DEMONSTRATION WITH THE FLOAT PLANES USED IN ALASKA.  THIS PLANE TOOK OFF RIGHT NEXT TO OUR BOAT, CIRCLED AROUND AND LANDED NEXT TO US.

After the cruise we were taken to a buffet lunch at the “Pump House”, a very nice restaurant right on the Tanana River, which actually was a pump house (picture mega streams of water being used to blast mountains into rivers of mud for sluicing out the gold) back in the day.  After lunch the tour bus driver took us for a thorough look at Fairbanks and it’s attractions.  

We stopped at the Alaska Pipeline, a huge undertaking, which the driver (female) had worked on!  It was a lovely day!

THIS IS THE PIG IN THE PIPELINE!

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After a time to relax and regroup we headed for the “Super Wal-Mart” – the first one we have seen in forever…back to the RV to catch up on some “blogging” and laundry!!  It is not fun doing laundry like this, haha.  Some “Band of Brothers” and bed.

We woke up Tuesday morning to smoke in the air outside.  There had been a forest fire the afternoon before.  The Eielsen Air Force Base is here.  Our tour guide of the day before said that a lot of fires are started there as they practice their war games and such.  Sure enough that’s where the fire started.  One couple in our group actually moved on to Denali because of the smoke filled air.   

We took it slow that morning – I slept in while Bill got caught up on the “news” in the world and with Kyle/Megan/Jackson.  Pecan pancakes & Canadian bacon were prepared, kitchen cleaned up, showered and we were out the door. 

First stop was the North Pole and the Santa Claus House.  This little city is all decorated with Candy Canes and the like… Street lamps, directional signs and businesses.  Santa Claus was there and I told him what I thought Grayden, Blair, Jackson & Brynn would like for Christmas --- he said he would keep that in mind but would be waiting for their letters early December.  Also took time to hang out with his reindeer.   

I TOLD SANTA THAT GRAYDEN, BLAIR, JACKSON and BRYNN HAD BEEN VERY GOOD THIS YEAR THUS FAR!

EVERYTHING IN NORTH POLE, ALASKA IS DECORATED WITH CANDY CANES -- FROM BUSINESSES, TO LAMP POSTS LINING THE STREETS, TO SIGNS DIRECTING YOU TO THE LIBRARY.  CRAZY!!

Headed back to “Pioneer Park” to explore a little more.  It is a Pioneer theme park with lots of history, museums, historic buildings, shops, playgrounds, a few rides, a theater, picnic areas and other exhibits and displays.  We only had a short time there (Bill spent most of it in the Pioneer Museum while I wandered full circle checking it out).

We had made reservations for the “El Dorado Gold Mine”.  We rode the Tanana Valley Railroad through a permafrost tunnel (with a singing/guitar playing conductor) with “miners” explaining and showing us how the mines were worked in the beginning.  We were taken to a working mine and met the owners who demonstrated the process today in finding the gold.  After the demonstration we were each given a sack of dirt and the opportunity to pan for gold.  They guarantee everyone at least 8 flakes – Bill only had 4 the first time so they gave him another bag.  We did find gold!!  We did not strike it rich!!  Between us we did have $18 worth of gold, (at $1,200 an ounce currently – you can see we didn’t have much) which offset the price of the tickets a little, haha.  It was fun!  Not ready to make it a living though.

THE TRAIN THAT TOOK US THROUGH THE MINE TO THE SLUICE AREA AND BACK!

OUR SINGING CONDUCTOR

ONE OF THE DEMONSTRATIONS OF THE OLD MINING PROCESS

THE SLUICE AREA WHERE THEY TAUGHT US THE PROCEDURE FOR PANNING FOR GOLD

I WAS TRYING REALLY HARD NOT TO MISS ANY OF THOSE LITTLE FLAKES!!  THIS IS NOT AS EASY AS YOU WOULD THINK!

THIS IS NOT THE GOLD I FOUND --- THIS ONE IS ON DISPLAY THERE FOR $40,000.00 VALUE.  SEE SIGN BELOW WITH THIS INFO.

I ACTUALLY DON'T EVEN LIKE THE LOOK OF GOLD -- SO GOOD THING I DIDN'T FIND ANYTHING TOO NEAT!

Okay – you know how excited we were about the “Super Wal-Mart”?  Well they even have a “Sam’s Club” here.  I love chicken salad, really love it.  Now Fronie, (my sister-in-law’s mother --- Fronie & I have kinda adopted each other) she makes THE BEST chicken salad, Bob Evans is next, Port-N-Starboard (Port Clinton, OH) is good and then there is Sam’s --- I was having a craving as soon as I saw the Sam’s Club, so after striking gold we headed to Sam’s.  We get there and Bill doesn’t have his wallet with the Sam’s card – I have a card also but it is in my other purse at the motor home and has the last name as Oberst and is under the Bolte (where I used to be employed) account.  We go in anyway and try to get a temporary card so I can have some chicken salad.  Okay ----- this is not easy.  The poor guy is trying everything to locate my account (useless trying to get one for Bill, he doesn’t even have his driver’s license with him).  My driver’s license is now a Michigan (it did hurt) one with the last name Martin and the card is an Ohio card with the last name of Oberst under the Bolte name – I don’t have anything on me that says Oberst or Bolte --- long story short.…. too late I know….. he gave me a temporary card (20 minutes later) and……NO CHICKEN SALAD.  They don’t carry it in that store.  I’m sure I’m supposed to learn that I should not be controlled by food…..no matter how good “Sam’s Club” chicken salad is.

The first day of our stop at “Riverview RV Park” I hear Bill talking to some lady outside.  I heard him say, “I almost shouted OH but I thought you might just be wearing someone else’s T-shirt.”  The lady’s daughter says right away “IO”.  Yes they were from Ohio, so Bill called me out.  They were from the Cleveland area and her husband is the grandson of a man from Port Clinton, OH (my home area).  Small world.  We talked for about 30-45 minutes and she happened to mention that they had eaten at “Mayflower Buffet” and it was really good.  Okay --- you guessed it, a Chinese Buffet --- Bill’s favorite!  I myself do not understand Chinese food --- I know people rave about it and crave it like I do chicken salad or chocolate, but I don’t get it.  I mean I’m not going to starve to death or anything, I will find things to eat, but there is nothing there that calls me to ever come back.  Except the joy that Bill gets from eating there.  So, good little wife that I am, I told him about it and that’s where we ate after our Tuesday excursions.

Back to the motor home, blogging, Band of Brothers and bed.  Tomorrow we head to Denali Park, Alaska, only 102 miles ---- and what lies ahead there?  My first ever, white water rafting, on the Nenana River.  Will let you know how that goes next time.  Sorry Michelle – wish you were here to share in this – but I thought I better get the experience for when you, Sue, Jean and I go!!