VALDEZ, ALASKA

VALDEZ, ALASKA

We were getting excited.  This weather thing was finally turning around.  The rain and cold had started to get to all of us a little.  Finally the sun was shining (there was rain in the forecast but we were hopeful) and the temperatures were rising – it was already over 60 when we left Palmer to drive our 260 miles to our next stop, Valdez, Alaska. 

When we had our briefing the wagon master highlighted a couple of good stops and scenic “musts”.  As always, I have the “Milepost” out in front of me with my logbook (Tracks road directions and destinations w/notes from the “briefings”), maps, atlas, itinerary and cheat sheets to the Milepost, a highlighter to mark our “stops” and a pen to take notes and keep our “wildlife sightings” count.  I look ahead in the “Milepost” and try to keep track of where we are, what’s coming up that’s worth a stop and let Bill know to get ready, this is it!  (Oh yeah, and taking pictures in between) After typing this out I now know why I am tired by the time we get to camp also.  I kept thinking Bill’s doing all the driving, why am I tired??!  Now it all makes sense!  LOL

First stop…Matanuska River, a very scenic viewpoint with a short pedestrian walkway leading up to a fenced viewing area – a few pictures and we were back on the road.

Second stop…Matanuska Glacier State Recreation Site.  These recreation sites are great, this one had excellent views of Matanuska Glacier with an interpretive shelter which was very informative.  I had no trouble talking Bill into stopping as he was mesmerized by the sight while he was driving (not a good state to be in while driving mind you) and he wanted to get a better view and take some good pictures.  I could not however talk him into taking the trail to get closer as it would have taken close to an hour, we had a long way to go and he had pulled a muscle.  Oh well, I can’t win them all, but as it turned out he was very wise as the day had much more in store for us.

Third stop…Rest break, freshly brewed coffee, game of cards and Bill was ready to get back on the road.

Fourth stop…Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve Visitor Center.  We walked through the visitor center, checking out the “wildlife” exhibits complete with skeletons and furs of many of the animals found in this national park.  Watched the 22 minute film about the Park.  Okay, I had never heard of this National Park, but it is actually twice the area of Denali National Park, 5 or 6 times (Bill & I can’t remember which??) the size of Yellowstone National Park.  It is the Nation’s largest National Park by far and contains the most spectacular array of glaciers and ice fields outside polar regions.  It is so isolated from civilization, there are no roads into it – the only way to see the vast majority of this park is by air or by foot.  The video was stunning.  We also took the trail through the boreal forest along the Wrangell Mountains.  

One of the rangers was in the middle of a talk on the grizzly bear when it was cut short.  One of the visitors had collapsed near the parking area and all the staff were needed to help with that.  Interesting, the part we did hear.

VIEW FROM THE TRAIL AROUND THE VISITOR CENTER AT WRANGELL-ST.ELIAS NATIONAL PARK

FISH WHEEL USED TO CATCH THE SALMON GOING UPSTREAM TO SPAWN AT THEIR PLACE OF BIRTH.

PICTURE OF A TREE WITH A "WITCHE'S BROOM".  WE SAW THESE ALL ALONG THE WAY....AND FINALLY FOUND OUT WHAT THEY WERE.

Fifth stop…and my favorite!!  Worthington Glacier State Recreation Site.  Have I told you how much I like these sites??  Now, I had been awed by the glacier we saw from the boat trip in Seward, it was amazing, the enormity of it and the close proximity while on the cruise.  Then we stopped at the Matanuska Glacier this morning and that was awesome also.  But….this one, incredible!  It’s a National Natural Landmark and the most visited site in the Copper River Basin.  There is a short walk to a viewing platform with a sign next to it, “Proceed at your own risk!”  You can actually walk up and touch the glacier!!  Okay, it is a little bit of a hike, and it’s not on even ground, and you have to jump over trickling streams, and climb some rocks, and a few other obstacles, and climb up hill, but it is amazing.  Bill did not wish to make the trek so I headed out with no plans to go all the way, I was just going a little ways farther and he was going to take a picture to show how close we were to it and how big it was.  But with every step, I kept thinking when will I ever be this close to a glacier again.  So I kept going a little farther and a little farther, I was oh so tempted to go the whole way but as I was wearing very flimsy slip-ons and had almost turned my ankle several times, I finally turned around and went back.  I could just picture Bill having to come and carry me back when he didn’t even want to walk out there.  It’s hard to explain how exhilarating it all was ---- again I can’t even find the words to explain the view I had and the enormity of the whole surrounding area.  STUNNING!  I gave it at 5 star rating.

CAN YOU SEE THE PEOPLE WALKING UP TO IT -- I CAME TO ABOUT THE BOTTOM OF THIS PICTURE -- INCREDIBLE!!

WILDFLOWERS ALONG THE WAY!!

Sixth & Seventh stops…Bridal Veil Falls & Horsetail Falls.  Bill and I both love waterfalls.  Every time I hear of or read of “waterfalls” ahead….I’m all about it.  So as we approached these we were determined to stop, no matter how late it was.  Again, they were larger than life, as much of Alaska is, and we were totally enthralled.  We stood there for quite a while marveling at this finality to our day’s journey.  We were only minutes from the RV park in Valdez.

BILL LOOKS A LITTLE SMALL NEXT TO THIS MOUNTAIN DOESN'T HE??

By the time we set up we were zonked from our long day and the beautiful outdoors.  We settled down with a smile on our face remembering and sharing our special day to Valdez on Prince William Sound.

We awoke in Valdez prepared for a “Columbia Glacier” Cruise in Prince William Sound.  It was a cool and drizzly morning but better weather than when we took the cruise in Seward.  This boat was smaller and only carried our group.  All but one, Ann, one of our single ladies, was late getting to the boat and did not make the trip.  They radioed to shore to have another boat pick her up but she was not happy with Tracks and would not take another.  She spent the day doing “other things”?!  She has actually been early for our outings since. 

Anyway, we passed by the Alyeska Pipeline & Terminal, many sea otters, sea lions (on buoys and on shore) and seabirds.  We stopped for a while to watch some Commercial Fisherman.  It’s really a neat little system they have there.  Two boats work together and throw out these huge nets to form a large circle, I can’t explain how they do it but we took some pictures and watched them pull up a major load of salmon.  Very interesting method.  We traveled from Port Valdez through the Valdez Arm down to Point Bull Head, Glacier Island and into the Columbia Bay to the Columbia Glacier. 

Lots of exciting wildlife to see on the way....This little guy was with a bunch of friends but just drifting along...

There were alot of sea lions!!

These guys left the group to sun themselves from the buoy.

Another horned puffin for Megan & Lori!!!

Again there were many sightings of whales.  The whole group was in and out of the boat.  There was a nice viewing area in the back and the front so as the Captain would slow down and alert us where to look, everyone jumped up with cameras and headed outside.  It was a little cool to be out there the whole time.  I don’t think I will ever get tired of seeing the whales perform, it truly is an amazing sight.  Picture taking on the other hand can be very frustrating, get set, focus, click and the whale has just about disappeared.  Back to someone else’s rig later tonight or tomorrow to copy their pictures. 

Another first was the icebergs!  We traveled through a sea of ice chunks from the Columbia Glacier.  You could hear the ice scraping the bottom and front of the boat as we went through.  All of these big blue pieces of glacier ice floating in a sea around us had us laughing and staring in delight.  The crewman pulled a piece out of the water for us to touch, hold, (kiss?).  Funny thing is when it is out of the water, out of the sunlight, it is crystal clear.  All the other colors the sun shines through but the blue is picked up and that is what you see.  Amazing!!  That was another new experience for Bill as well.  It was a very worthwhile tour and everyone enjoyed it immensely.

THE AMAZING THING IS THOUGH THIS ICE LOOKS BLUE AND SOMETIMES GREY IT IS CRYSTAL CLEAR WHEN REMOVED FROM THE WATER AND THE SUN IS NOT REFLECTING OFF OF IT.  

IT TASTES WONDERFUL!!  BETTER THAN ANY BOTTLED WATER I'VE HAD!

 Cruise over and back to camp for a briefing on the next day travel and then free evening.  We invited Elaine to join us (she travels w/Ann who left upset.  Now they have a Van/Camper, (no tow car) which Ann had taken so when Elaine came back she had no “home” to go to.  Unbelievable!!  Bill started cooking dinner when Elaine invited us to go with her and a group out to “Chinese”!!  I was prepared to say yes, we will finish cooking the chicken the next night, but Bill tells her I hate Chinese and to come back after dinner.  We had plans to go to the Fishery a couple miles away and watch the bear catch/eat salmon.

About 8:30-9PM the three of us headed out to the Fishery but on the way there we saw several cars pulled over by a little creek with people outside the vehicles watching for the  bears.  We decided to stay in the vehicle and wait.  Finally about 10PM a bear came out of the woods, went into the water, grabbed a salmon and went back into the woods.  It was getting rather dark and he was in the shadows so though we could see him it was not a good view.  Two couples from our group drove past and stopped to tell us that there were bear down by the fishery and you could see them very well.  So, off we went.  Seriously, this black bear was in the river below us walking around in and out of the water searching for the “perfect” salmon.  He scooped one up and get this….he only ate the eggs, tore open the fish, scooped them out, ate them and went searching for another.  I guess humans aren’t the only ones that like caviar, although can’t say I ever developed the taste for it.  We watched him for about 20 minutes then he headed right under this bridge area where everyone was watching.  He continued to fish for a little while, we were amazed to realize he was only feet from us.  Now there was a rail between us so we all felt pretty safe, but the next thing we knew he had walked up on shore and walked up the hill beside us.  Okay, now this is getting crazy, he walks right by us with no barrier, incredible!  Bill decides this is getting way to close and we head back to the car.  Some people were actually following him down the road (he was on the other side, but still!!?) taking pictures, he headed into the brush and up the mountain.  We could see him for awhile walking along the cliffside before he disappeared into the woods.  Our camera is not sophisticated enough to get good pictures at dusk, they came out pretty blurry.  I took this great video of all the action but, bad as I am with a camera, I actually deleted it by mistake.  Again those of the group that have the high-tech equipment are sharing their pictures.  But remember, we did see this bear with our own eyes.  This is truly an amazing experience.  I tell you, each day brings new adventures and delights. 

Can’t wait until tomorrow!  Heading to Tok, a long 254 miles.  Pizza party planned for the group at Fast Eddy’s in Tok, nothing else on the agenda so it should be a quiet evening. Everyplace has beauty to spare and brings joy, oohing & ahhing!!  Just don’t know what will be around the next corner.  Will let you know what we find.